My Flux XL conversion with 1717 and center diff

Not your average Savage Hop ups. These are highly modified, with some home-made parts.

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s2022
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Re: My Flux XL conversion with 1717 and center diff

Post by s2022 » Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:34 pm

oh ok, got me concerned here with the calculation...
anyway no worries, my temps were around 55 deg for esc and 65-70 for the motor, but mind you the ambient should have been around 40-45. to give you an idea, my car was parked in the shade before getting to the bashing area, when I was measuring the temps during runs, took a reading on the metal body of my car, It was 56 deg. got to install a fan for the motor.
when I had the smaller trenches on motor temps were around the mid sixties. all temps in centigrade.

Edit: meta to metal
Last edited by s2022 on Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by s2022 » Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:46 pm

As for the mechanical brakes, the idea was to relieve some strain off the esc when I was still planning on using the MMM, later it was more of a self challenge as I never got it working in thenfirst version to say. Though I still feel it relieves the esc from additional strain. Another advantage is the ability to tune the brake bias front to rear. One last thing when elec braking the pinion, spur and center diff are the elements braking and transferring the braking force via dog bones to the front and rear diffs, in mech braking they are releived of any brake force during braking.

In all honesty its nice to have but not a must in terms of a huge advantage.
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Post by johny723 » Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:44 pm

Another thing I want to ask are the tires... You use different for front and rear. They are not of the same diameter. Do you have a feel of the truck being drifty? I know that the CD distributes the momentum to the wheels independently, but is its action sufficient enough to give both ends of your truck the same traction? Without the CD the rear would be faster and the front would be slower so any traction would be lost and you would be simply drifting. But now when you use the CD, does it work properly enough to keep the traction and to help the front wheels rotate faster than the rear to compensate their smaller diameter? So that it does not drift ? I cant tell this from the vid.

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Post by s2022 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:04 am

The different tires front and rear are simply because i am out of tires, i mentioned this earlier " thats what i have left of 6xmashers 3.2 and 8xbadlands...... " my mashers 40 series still need glueing after being dismantled to remove a snapped belted duct tape inside; removed all the tapes.

As for driving, i feel no difference mind you the diameter difference is negligible 147mm vs 148 mm if i recall, anyway by feel side by side they are quite close. there is a part in the videos where there was a nice controlled drift after i got finished with brake testing, can't do that if the traction wasn't distributed nicely.

I am contemplating ordering some GRP tires, i hear "hear or read" that they don't balloon and last a lot, any guys out there have any input to this or tried some. i just hate ballooning! why can't RC tire manufacturers come out with belted tires, i mean do a search you find buggy on road 1/8 belted tires; even 1/10 and SC size belted tires. but not a single MT belted tire whether on or off road. Don't know if the GRP's are belted?!

Next might have to venture into Baja tire territory, although i am trying to avoid weighty tires. The GRP's aren't light, but the narrow ones as i recall reading it somewhere are lighter than the baja tires.

Any Tire advice?
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Post by johny723 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:44 am

I dont have much experience, but proline badlands are my best tires for any use. They are light, durable, dont balloon much and have a nice grip pretty much anywhere.

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Post by s2022 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:59 am

[quote="johny723";p="849869"]I dont have much experience, but proline badlands are my best tires for any use. They are light, durable, dont balloon much and have a nice grip pretty much anywhere.[/quote]

Totally agree (thats why i had 4 pairs), unfortunately they don't make them anymore. They have the 3.8" version now, although read some good reviews about them yet to buy a set and try them. would love to hear of any one who used them, especially in terms of ballooning being a 3.8 " tire.
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Post by johny723 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:31 am

new badlands are good as well, I have these new badlands on my savage!

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Post by s2022 » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:40 am

[quote="marco73";p="839548"]hello
in the central part of the front and rear axle which have mounted.
type and code thanks[/quote]

just realized never answered your question, but re reading it didn;t get what you were inquiring about. just let me know.....
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Post by s2022 » Wed Sep 12, 2012 3:53 pm

Need some Help Please!

Was trying to hookup my Servos to an External BEC without going thru the Rx, as i am planning on running the Steering servo on 7.2v and the throttle on 5.5 or 6v and both from external BEC.

This is the Layout i have in mind, which I actually tried but it did not work?!?!  any thing wrong i am doing?

Image
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Post by FluxNZ » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:23 pm

The way I have it setup for my Mamba XL2 is the wires +/- from the BEC should be going to battery 1 +/-. Not sure about running 2 servos from the BEC?
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Post by s2022 » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:29 pm

I don't think there is any difference between batt1 or batt2 as both are 3s; it should not matter, i know usually your remove the red wire from the esc to the bec and feed the rx from the bec thru the batt / aux channel . will try to sketch it up, and will try it. but to make the most out of the servos i have, I need different voltage to each.

Thanks anyway FluxNZ  :D
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Post by FluxNZ » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:32 pm

Yeah I was looking at the diagram and thinking that too but thought I would pass on what worked for me. I let the ESC power the reciever and the BEC power the steering servo.
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Post by s2022 » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:41 pm

that's what I'm trying to do. how did you hook up the three wires of the steering servo?
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Post by FluxNZ » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:51 pm

Photo of the adapter I made (was in my 5T build thread):

Image
Image

One plug takes the signal for the servo and the other plug is for the +/-.

Really easy to make just buy yourself some kits for the male/female connectors (best to grab a tool to crimp the pins) and your done :wink:
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Post by s2022 » Fri Sep 14, 2012 6:05 am

Thanks FluxNZ, i see what you mean, the problem was not the connections from after the BEC, the issue was that the BEC and RX were powered by different Battery sources. Got it sorted out with the help of guys on another forum.
It seems the signal gets corrupted of the power sources are different, or of different sources.

These 2 diagrams worked:

Image

Image
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Post by FluxNZ » Fri Sep 14, 2012 6:06 pm

Interesting.

Glad you got it sorted.
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Post by s2022 » Thu Oct 18, 2012 10:01 am

Bad news update!
Something kindof strange happened, While just bashing the other day, nothing serious as in high jumping or full long WOT runs. The truck starts making weird noises and some smoke appears, I get closer remove the body cover and it smells like something is smoking; no smoke though. Just as i finger the throttle  smoke appears from the Mamba XL2 esc, when i take my finger off the throttle it stops. Didn't have the guts to give it a WOT test.

Removed the ESC and checked all the cables for any thing touching or stripped, all seems in order. Then I put in my other Mamba XL2 esc, wired it up and gave it a test, all seemed working perfectly. been Bashing it for couple days now.

What could be the cause? Sure I will be sending it in to Castle for a warranty Repair, but can't seem to grasp what happened?! :?
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Post by FluxNZ » Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:44 pm

Doesn't sound right anyway so like you said sending it in under warranty repair is the best.  I'll have to keep an eye on mine.

Did you do or check the latest service advisory for the MambaXL2?
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Post by s2022 » Thu Oct 18, 2012 4:18 pm

[quote="FluxNZ";p="851788"]Doesn't sound right anyway so like you said sending it in under warranty repair is the best.
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Post by FluxNZ » Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:15 pm

Just checking because I had to do it on mine before I ran it.

Castle wouldn't warrent the 1520 that I used in the truck (brand new one) but it's different scenario for that compared to the MambaXL2 I guess.
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