Projekt Paris

Not your average Savage Hop ups. These are highly modified, with some home-made parts.

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phiver
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Re: Projekt Paris

Post by phiver » Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:19 am

Aloha savage central, here i am making baffles for my tank:
Image
cut them out of a waterbottle,put glue on (it's contactglue, 2 komponent was not so good)
edit: the glue was not fuelproof! i had to remove the baffles and will try it again later, with silicone.

insert them with tweezers and press them down with a stick from time to time
Image
ready to go

here we go, mounting the tank
Image
i make a juicy spot with a marker on the tank mount, and mark the position on the alu with it.
add a few milimeters to have a little tilt on the tank going to the clunk.
edit:
with the addition of the long clunk it is no longer necessary to tilt the tank!

Image
use a dremel to connect the holes

i had to make the wire of the steering servo about 5cm longer to reach the receiver.
yes, i did insulate the seperate wires, but i had to go and buy tape...
and put the shrinking tube on BEFORE soldering (that's not what i did offcourse)
Image
happy are we`>}
Image
on the front tank mount i used binding wire
cables and lipo current control placed besides the tank, receiver in front

next time around:
big bores, rc-ready and body (:pics:)
Last edited by phiver on Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:54 am, edited 5 times in total.

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Post by dodgedude » Sun Aug 22, 2010 2:08 pm

Very nice custom mount, there is some inginuity their in the Pin placement :wink: and good work on the baffles :D

I cant wait to see this bad boy in action
[img]http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af324/Dodgedude780/avatar-1.jpg[/img]
[url=http://www.savage-central.com/Evo-Forums_-_file_-_viewtopic_-_t_-_93901_-_start_-_0.html]Big Blue[/url]......Soon.....

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Post by phiver » Tue Aug 24, 2010 7:37 am

thanks,
that way i have the mms i need to put the reciver in front of the tank.
it also looks funny, like a smilie:)
with the added metal braces, it will reduce flex in the front section too i guess.
because often we see bent front sections.
maybe it is possible to use the metal braces in combination with a normal rc-setup also. ?
i wonder how much stronger the standard tvp-setup would be then (if any)?

lol baffles, well that's what i said i would do, cut out some plastic thingies and glue them just in there.
(i have to admid i did do some testing with the material and glue, and put samples into nitro for half a day)



for me that frontplate mod was much harder to do, than the midtank i did before.
so i'm sorry to say, that actionwise, there are still some things ?before i can drive that build.
making that open rc-set waterproof and fixing all the rc-parts and cables to the rc-plate.

i will use cablebinder to the chassis for current-converter, failsave and cables.
for the receiver i'm not completetly shure, wether to make extra mounting holes in the alu plate for an additional cable binder,
or just use very strong rip-tape to fix the receiver to the plate?

waterproofing the open receiver is also a bit of a task,
i did use the balloon method but it didn't work too well for me.
i think, i will use the plasti-tip i have here.
with that stuff, i can also waterproof the connectors using a brush.
and on the currentcontroller and failsave i would use silicon out of a handpress.


when i have found time to do all that (maybe tomorrow, maybe next week)
then, i do hope that everything goes well...

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KiZ
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Post by KiZ » Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:34 am

Nice idea, but I'm worried that glue may not be fuel proof.
and put the shrinking tube on BEFORE soldering (that's not what i did offcourse)
Haha, happens to me all the time  :)
[url=http://www.kizzard.net/gallery/][img]http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r56/kizzzard/gray-sav.gif[/img][/url]

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Post by phiver » Wed Aug 25, 2010 6:33 am

@kiz:
maybe i should use silicon instead of pattex?
i mean is there some knowlede about what kind of glue is definately nitro proof?

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Post by GSGA » Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:01 am

Just a suggestion, how about the stuff we use to seal engines? A thick enough bead of that would hold them I reckon. And we know it's nitro proof.
[img]http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/Banzai_22/GSGA-SIGGIF02-01b.gif[/img]
[url=http://goo.gl/NMk1h]K4.6 SHO[/url]
[url=http://goo.gl/9jHqt]Flux Triple X[/url]

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Post by phiver » Thu Aug 26, 2010 12:56 pm

that would be silicone again
but i don't like to use that stuff on tiny things, because once you use a cartrige it will be wasted since it tends to harden out at whole once it is open.
for that reason i used the plast dip on all the rc parts, works very well.

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Post by phiver » Sat Aug 28, 2010 2:08 pm

i decided to leave the tank as it is
(i put plastic bottle parts, glued together with pattex, half a day into nitro and it seemed allright)

some pics dipping:
Image
i took the surplus dip on the bottom away before it did dry.
i dipped the receiver a second time to seal it nicely.
some parts of the receiver are covered with tape, so no dip does get inside.

here you can see some sealed rc parts.
Image
i did use a piece of a zip-tie to apply the dip.
to cover the on/off switch i used the tip of a condom.
the plasti-dip can be cut and peeled off the receiver easily (where the connectors are, and on the side where the rip-tape will be applied later)

thats how it looks at the moment.
i drilled an extra 8mm hole in the plate to put through the servocables.
for mounting the receiver on the front plate i used rip tape.
Image
the cables are plugged into the receiver and the empty slot is filled with a piece of foam, then i seal the connection part of the receiver too.
the same goes for the failsave, because it won't fit through the cable hole, when it is connected before the servo cable is put through.
before you seal the connectors, test the rc to see if everything is connected in the right way!

the failsave is now open where it can be adjusted, when this is done, i will cover this spot with tape, so i have easy access.
then the only open part would be the battery connector, which will also be sealed with tape.

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Post by KiZ » Sat Aug 28, 2010 4:21 pm

[quote="groundskygroundagain";p="763826"]Just a suggestion, how about the stuff we use to seal engines? A thick enough bead of that would hold them I reckon. And we know it's nitro proof.[/quote]

Most of it actually isn't. I believe robin told me only one is, which is a rather expensive variety called Threebond 1211.

But yes phiver I agree, silicone is a pain as the tube tends to dry up within few weeks or months (if well sealed) after opening it.
[url=http://www.kizzard.net/gallery/][img]http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r56/kizzzard/gray-sav.gif[/img][/url]

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Post by phiver » Fri Sep 03, 2010 4:50 am

next stage of project paris is finished.


i had to try a little mod before mounting the front dampers.
Image
i added some spacers supplied with the big bore kit under the lower spring retainer.
now the damper can be mounted behind the upper arm and won't get in the way of the steering linkage.
as you can see i used the hpi rubber boots again (pt.nr.: 85108)
Image
its rather tight.
the receiver fits here without touching the damper.
but the spacers have to be positioned so that the upper corner of receiver fits in the rear gap of them.

here are some wholecar shots.
Image
i want to see if the rc works without the ever breaking antenna tube, so i zip-tied the antenna to the handle part of the rollcage.
edit:it does work, but seriously decreases the reach of the rc, so don't do that!
Image
Image

i'm looking forward to testdrive it, although i have to admit that i'm quite nervous about it.
i hope everything does go well...
Last edited by phiver on Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:56 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Post by phiver » Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:22 am

i took project paris for a ride today!

everything is doing fine, exept:

the effin tank lid

its not tight!
i had to stop driving after one or two minutes because fuel was spilling all over the place.
man i'm angry, can these guys not even produce a tank which is holding it's fuel?
i hope i can easily solve this problem with adding another o-ring or using a different one, but that's so unnecessary!

anyway i'm happy that, as far as i can say after just a few minutes drive, everything is working fine.
one thing that i noticed is, that the black springs are way to stiff for my liking, i will get the silver and blues springs as those should be the softest two available.

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Post by phiver » Wed Sep 15, 2010 10:59 am

i fixed the tank lid with teflon tape aka plumbers tape.
wrapped around some layers and put on the o-ring again.
Image
but this was not enough, now the spring would not close the lid completely, it needed more tension to push the thicker o-ring in.
i bent the spring for more pressure and placed a piece of alu under it so it won't bend the plastic of the tank.
Image
now it works fine:)

the other thing is, the glue was not fuel proof!
i removed the baffles for now and will try again later with silicone.
if that does not work, i will have to get that threebond stuff wich kiz talked about.

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Post by phiver » Thu Dec 16, 2010 4:49 am

WHAT'S THAT!

Image

WORK DETAIL FOR PARIS!

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM!
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT!
Image

1.) the history of my brakes
    1&3: the double steel: very good stopping power, but when i remounted it recendly, one disc suddenly slipped of the cup and blocked the drivetrain.
     that's a no no ofcourse, also they eat the alu brake pads over time.
    4: therefore i did get me the double fibre disc as everybody praises them.
    2: the single fibre disc from gpm was not so good, poor braking and the supplied pads make no sense because they fade away very quick.

2.) the new servo saver parts parts. rubber shielded bearings all around instead of the metal shielded and plastic bushings combo i used until now.
    unmounting the servo saver was a bit of a mess, for the effin soft alu did get damaged. now i have to buy 86319 anew, which wil introduce the burple again , yikes...
    along comes the stronger spring 102522, a mod which really makes sense with strong metal geared servos!

3.) i will change all the 10mm gearbox mounting screws for 15mm: hpi z569

4.) alu servohorn instead of the cutout plastic i used so far, in combo with the stiffer servosafer spring it allows me to increase steering power quite a bit!

5.) last but not least: the big, one piece cupjoint for the new brake setup: 86322, i guess nothing will slip off this one.

also new: the long clunk
Image
through mounting the fuel filter inside the tank on a long piece of tube instead of just a short one, it will now move to the lowest point automatically to suck up the good stuff.

AMAZING!
Last edited by phiver on Fri Feb 11, 2011 2:02 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by phiver » Mon Feb 07, 2011 3:39 am

aloha savage central,

yesterday i did my first deanodising
Image

the process itself is no great thing, but you have to take care handling the caustic soda!
it seems the hardest part is, to get just the little amount of caustic soda/solution needed to do this.
i ended up with a 1l bottle of 37% caustic soda solution for about 15 bucks.

as you can see, i used plastic gloves and goggles while handling this stuff!
this stuff is more dangerous to the skin than acid, so be careful and keep animals and children away from it!

i also recommend using earthware or glas instead of plastic or metal for the cup.
just to be save, because with metal or some plastics there can be reactions posssible.

as it was a sunny day, i did this on the balcony, avoid inhaling...
to handle the parts while deanodising i used pliers. Gloves are ok also, but don't spread through contact.

when you're save the rest is fairly easy, fill up with soda until the parts are covered.
take care that no air bubbles stick to the parts when you put them into the solution.
then let it rest until all the colour is corroded away.
depending on what part, it took from 10min to 30min for the colour to be eaten away completely.
the caustic soda makes little bubbles like lemonade and takes on the colour of the deanodised parts.
deanodising is a purely chemical process, so no brushes or whiping needed.

when the colour was gone, i did put the parts into a cup of water for some minutes and then flushed and whiped them dry.
(picture above)

thats it for now, take care and have fun!

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Post by phiver » Mon Sep 30, 2013 2:30 pm

I UP

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Post by phiver » Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:48 pm

Hello, my fellow Savagers!
Finally, after some three years of waiting i just now had the opportunity to get Projekt Paris On A Day Out!

Here is the link (my first selfmade vide:o) !
http://www.vidup.de/v/aqv72/

The first l/r-run was after years of shelf time a new glowplug and a quick pull and there she was.
Mild sun and airtime, one or two short flips, superficieal leaning...
She took everything and came back for more, thats my Paris.

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