Anyone else going through front bulkheads like crazy (102772

Hey all,

After a couple of weeks of real bashing, since the winter is finally over I have been breaking my lower front bulkhead (diff housing) quite frequently. I am on forth, and at $26 a piece it starts to add up. Of course it breaks from my bad landings, and breaks at the lower arm pin location. Usually takes the two lower purple metal pieces with it.

I'm thinking it could be due to my RPM arms, the arms aren't braking and therefore transferring the load to where they mount, the bulkhead of course.

holy smokes never heard of em coming apart that bad. as far as the cost ive picked up complete diffs on fleabay for less than 26 bux and they came stuffed with BP gears.

i would same the RPM arms are the problem like you said. ?theres tough but they dont allow enough give. ?I dont think you HAVE to run composite diff cases on the flux regular ones would prolly suffice if your having that many break.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-Savage-X-EZ-Access-Differential-Case-Bulkheads_W0QQitemZ390178640136QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad8759108
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Savage-X-K4-6-SS-Front-Rear-Lower-Bulkhead-Plates-21-25_W0QQitemZ300414424585QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45f2185609
stock up on cheap ones if you want to keep the RPM arms. lol

I have seen guys with metal diff case. Idk where to get 'em but I'm sure there is something like that...

Maybe this can be helpful http://www.rcplanet.com/Integy_HPI_Savage_Gear_Box_p/intt7015s.htm .. metal diff case for $25 Rolling Eyes

FLM makes some alum. bulks.

my youtube

i run dual purple aluminum braces in the front.

I use HPI graphite braces.

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/73070/

*

my youtube

look at the picture, see the black spacer in between? i cut that of a broken upper or lower arm pin.

i ditched the machine screw idea and used the original pins, they are just long enough.

now cut away the front pin stoppers from the skid plate to make room for the extra aluminum brace.

now find some longer screws that will replace the original crews that hold the aluminum front plate, note the new longer screws must go just as far into the bulkhead as the originals did.

now you have the bulkhead assembled with everything ready except you need pin stoppers.

now find some plastic pieces that you can epoxy or ca clue on the front aluminum brace in front of the pins so they cant move back and forth, you may need to make a recess in them with a drill if the pins are too long.

you can make changes as you like while doing the mod if something pops up in your mind that might work better to keep the pins from walking back and forth.

i hope this explains the mod well enough and will be of some help. if not i'll try and dig up my truck and find the charger for my camera.

my youtube

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the picture is just taken while i was just assembling stuff randomly to get an idea of how i wanted my setup to be.

i did not end up using the threaded rods and nuts. i ended up using the stock pins and longer screws for the purple plate.

the threaded pins are stainless pins that i threaded and come from my hellfire front arm mod.

here are pics of my hellfire setup, the rods just happen to fit the savage as well, but i did not use them as the pins are not hard enough.

last picture is while i was messing around

my youtube

if you guys want i can put together a dual brace kit with all the hardware.

kit would be laser cut out of stainless steel for maximum strength.( as parts are small extra weight would be minimum)

this would eliminate bulkheads ripping apart from front end collision to either arms (wheels) as it divides the force over both lower arms pins (as the force is trying to rip one of the pins out of the bulkhead the braces make sure that the force is equally transferred to the other side).

i have been thinking about going into business making rc mod parts for some time now and i might as well start here if someone is interested.

Yeah, I re-installed the stock arms, but left the upper arms RPM, I will see how that works.

Basically, on the arm, where the mounting pin slides through is the break location. This area is beefed up on the RPM arms, therefore the arm does not break and pulls the pin right out of the bulkhead, causing that to break instead.

my youtube

i spent about two times today designing the kit i'm going to put together.

somehow i got lost in my excitement and got totally hooked up on drawing cat pictures.

Well, I put the stock arms back on and it lasted up until now....after a weak jump too.

Gonna have to order my 5th bulkhead, these are expensive. Maybe I'll go aluminum here or try to give more support than the weak purple braces.


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