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**Attention AOL Users**
Apparently there is a flaw in the AOL web browser which prevents users from logging on to sites which use a Security Code upon login. To get around this please use your Internet Explorer browser which is part of the Windows operating system instead of the built in browser that is included as part of the AOL software package.
Thank you,
Savage-Central.com
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Savage 4.6 RTR Review
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HPI was good enough to send SC a Savage X 4.6 to do a review on, and after a few hours of bashing it and a couple weeks of club racing, I feel I have gotten a good feel for the truck.
The new F4.6 fired right up and idled beautifully through 2 tanks sitting on my break in stand. After a couple trouble free tanks doing some slow to mid speed circles and figure 8’s I put it on the track bone stock for the RC Pro-series event that was held at my local track.
A few changes were needed for the track:
1: The stock tires while being excellent for bashing around the yard and on a gravel driveway just didn’t have enough bite on the hard packed clay track. I found that the HPI Dirt Bonz worked very well with a little loose fluff on the track even when water was added to keep the dust down.
2: The shocks are too heavily sprung for a rough track. I removed 1 spring from each corner and all the preload spacers, and changed the shock fluid to 25wt oil. This lets the truck stay in better contact with the ground over the rough stuff. I tried to fit a sway bar to the front end, but none that were in stock at the LHS would fit. The bulks and lower arms have holes to mount a sway bar, but I cannot find one on HPI’s site. A sway bar may not be the answer, but the inside front tire is lifting going through corners, and I would like to try one to see if it helps.
3: The grease in the diffs was not heavy enough for racing. I opened up the easy access diffs and put 30,000 in the front, and 20,000 in the rear. This may be a bit on the heavy side, as the truck does push a little, but it is very predictable. Total time to open up both diffs add oil and reassemble was about 30 minutes. About 1/3 the time it would take with the old diff set up.
4: The stock dual disk brakes had awesome feel at first, but after only the Pro-series race, and 1 club race the disks shredded. Gluing the edges of the disks may have helped keep them together, but I was not able to get my hands on another set.
The easy access tranny is also a great improvement. Changing a spur gear takes about 10 minutes total time if you are replacing the same size gear. The top of the tranny comes off with 7 screws, and the spur shaft is in your hand. If you change spur sizes you will need to loosen up the motor and reset the mesh.
I did not use the stock radio gear, as I was going to be participating in a large race with over 200 entrants, I wanted the flexibility of my Synthesized gear for the race. I have used HPI’s radio gear in the past, and there is not a problem with it. I used the stock gear with my Savage .21 for an entire racing season with no problems.
Sadly, I am not able to say much more about the F4.6, as my receiver pack broke while landing a jump, the impact drove the throttle servo open, and the truck landed on its roof. The engine was wide open for about 30 seconds wheels in the air. I need to get a new piston and sleeve for it. I had about ½ gallon through the engine at the time, and for being so fresh, I was impressed with it. The front wheels were lifting easily on the track, I had to feather the throttle coming out of turns to keep them down. This engine shows great promise.
A week or so after the big race, I took the truck over to tbills place for some bashing. We set up a medium sized jump, and proceeded to put a hurting on the trucks. The RTR X 4.6 took everything I could throw at it. Badly landed jumps, and hard rollovers. I managed to keep from running head on into anything, but other than that I abused the truck pretty hard.
Over all, HPI has managed to up the racing capability of the Savage while maintaining its bash-ability. The X 4.6 RTR is a step forward in the evolution of the savage in my opinion.
After writing the bulk of this review, and having not yet posted it, The 2007 Northeast Bashfest came around. I took the new X 4.6 RTR to that and really handed out some punishment. After a full day of backflips, long jumps, missing the take off ramp completely, and other abuse, the only things I broke were a couple dog bones, a minor little bend of the TVP under the fuel tank, and 1 after market engine.
Bashfest Aftermath Thread
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2007 Northeast Bashfest
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2007 Northeast Bashfest
AKA the 4th Annual Savage-Central Bashfest
What:
Basically the same as we have done for the last few years. We will set up a big jump to launch off of. Occasionally the jump will be shut down for some track time, and we’ll run some laps. Being that the groups have been small, this loose format has suited us in the past. If the attndance gets much bigger, we may have to structure some events, but I am leaving it as a loosely organized bash for the time being.
When:
July 14, 2007
Track opens at 9:00 AM
Where:
Team CRC Raceway, Rome NY. For directions, click the link, and there is a link for directions in the menu on the left.
Entry Fee: $15.00 per person, $25 for a family. No limit on vehicles, entry is per person/family not number of vehicles.
This started out with 5 attendees in 2004, each year attendance has doubled, there were approximatly 20 SC members and their friends or family in attendance. Hopefully this year we will have more.
HPI has learned of the event, and is sending a few things to give away as prizes. Also, they may send one of their representatives out, but due to the relativly short notice, that may not happen.
See the thread in our FORUMS for more details.
2004 bash pics
2005 pics Links to vids in this thread do not work.
2005 Video
2006 video Download
Hope to see you there!!!
Squid
2007 Vid is now up!!! Thanks to Zapper for putting it together. And thanks again to all those that attended, with out you guys, it wouldn't have happened.
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Never be without your temp gage again....
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I got tired of never having my temp gage with me. I was originally going to velcro it onto my radio, but then I figured that I'd leave it behind anyways. I then decided to take one of my skiing extension type things(I have no idea what they're called) and attach it to my radio and temperature gage. Mine extension allows 2 feet of extension and then wraps itself back in. I'm sure these pics will help...
You'll need:
transmitter
temperature gage
double sided tape
velcro
some sort of extension(optional)
Also, if you use the extension thing, you'll want to keep any slack out when placing your velcro, this way it isn't lose and rattling around.
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hyper 7 pullstart on the sts
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hi
can you put this in the tec tips bit for me.thanks.here it is:
Hyper 7 pull start on the sts engine not much modification needed
List of what’s needed
Allen keys
Thread lock
Hyper 7 pull start
Hyper 7 shaft
Silicon
silcon o-rings


Rubber seal only the little black 1 needed
First remove the engine out off the truck

Once out remove the pull start
Then the back plate of the sts
Then you have to remove the sts shaft there’s a c clip hold this in place (swear box maybe needed)
Then fit the hyper 7 shaft should fit straight into place with no modding needed
I then use a hyper 7 seal out off the diff seal bag to hold this in place and keep it seals some people dremel a ring around to fit a c clip back onto but I have never had a problem with mine

Then get a bit off silicon and run it around the edge off the seal on the back plate don’t use too much as you don’t want it squirting into the engine this is just to keep everything sealed
Then use lock tight and replace the screws in the back plate
then replace the pull starter and hope you don’t break it lol I haven’t and have ran about 10 tanks thro my sts
sorry i couldnt show you the whole job but i havent got the sts parts no more'
thanks to tyler off got nitro for this guide
good luck
scs-racing
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Engine Sealing Extra Tip
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When I pulled my Savage X's engine to seal it, as a machinist I was amazed by the lack of quality. Especially at the very important area around the backing plate.
As you can see, the sealing surface which SHOULD be nice and flat is anything but. Ridges, tool marks, etc. leave much to be desired. This area need to be lapped
At work I use a granite plate that is flat to .00004 (40 millionths of an inch). A piece of thick window glass would be 2nd choice. But since I have neither at home, I use a piece of aluminum plate.
Put a piece of 400 grit paper on the plate. You can used spray adhesive to make it stick, but use sparingly.
Ideally, you should take the engine totally apart, but I was pressed for time so I cut a piece of foam and stuffed it in the crankcase to keep dirt and grit out.
Here it is after lapping. a nice, flat mating surface for the backing plate. When lapping use gentle back and forth movements. Take your time and keep a gentle, even pressure against the paper.
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HOWTO: Increase Braking by up to 200%
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1. Remove your brake arm..
2. Put a bend in it such at about a 45degree angle..
3. Re-fix.
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